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Thursday, Dec. 8, 2011 06:15 pm

Michael Ruhlman’s apple-cinnamon doughnuts

art9398

The paste will pull away from the pan
PHOTO BY DONNA TURNER RUHLMAN
Scoop out the dough with a plastic bag
PHOTO BY DONNA TURNER RUHLMAN
Pipe the dough into the oil 
PHOTO BY DONNA TURNER RUHLMAN
PHOTO BY DONNA TURNER RUHLMAN

I’d call these fritters rather than doughnuts, but whatever they’re called, they’re absolutely scrumptious. There’s more apple than dough in them, the dough acting primarily as a binder. The resulting fritters/doughnuts are unusually light with a crispy sugared exterior and an almost custardy interior bursting with apple flavor.


Ruhlman says of this recipe: “This is a very easy preparation for what I find to be an addictive pleasure. A quickly made dough called pate a choux – the dough used to make cream puffs – is loaded with diced apple, fried and rolled in cinnamon sugar. The doughnuts make a wickedly good start to the day and also a surprisingly easy and impressive passed dessert after dinner.”

  • 4 T. butter
  • 1/2 c. all-purpose flour
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 1/2 c. sugar
  • 1 – 1 1/2 c. peeled and finely diced Granny Smith apples
  • 1 1/4 tsp. cinnamon
  • Oil for deep frying

In a small saucepan over high heat, combine the butter and 1/2 c. water. When the butter has melted and the water comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and add the flour. Stir until the flour absorbs the water and becomes a paste. Continue cooking the flour for another 30 seconds or so. Remove from the heat.

Stirring rapidly, add the eggs one at a time [it’s best to crack the eggs into small individual bowls ahead of time so there’s no danger of shell fragments falling into the dough], and stir vigorously until completely incorporated. Let the dough cool enough to handle.

Add the apples to the dough and stir until well combined. Invert a large plastic bag over your hand and scoop out the apple dough. Cut a half-inch hole in the corner of the bag.

In a bowl large enough to toss the doughnuts, [or large paper bag] combine the sugar and cinnamon and stir to mix.

Heat the oil in a pan for deep-frying to 350 degrees F. Pipe the dough into the oil, cutting the dough off at roughly two-inch intervals or as desired. (Or shape them using two spoons and drop them into the oil off the spoons.)

Cook until golden brown and cooked through, about three minutes; remove a doughnut, cut it open, and see if the center is cooked and warm. Remove the doughnuts from the oil to a bowl or pan lined with paper towels/absorbent paper to drain them, then roll them in the cinnamon sugar. Serve immediately.

Makes anywhere from 20 - 30 doughnuts.

–adapted from Ruhlman’s Twenty, by Michael Ruhlman

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