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Thursday, Jan. 31, 2019 12:01 am

A basic method to open many doors

 Named for the little cabbages the baked puffs of dough resemble, pâte à chouxis incredibly versatile. Five basic ingredients come together quickly to form a dough that transforms in the oven o...
Thursday, Jan. 24, 2019 12:01 am

My adventures in Chicago's top kitchen

 The English poet and playwright Robert Browning wrote: “Ah, but a man’s reach should exceed his grasp. Or what’s a heaven for?” This phrase has been cycling around in my head these past...
Thursday, Jan. 17, 2019 12:01 am

Use leftovers, make it ahead, put it in the oven. Then loaf.

 It often seems that some most delicious meals were developed out of frugality. Day-old bread is transformed into decadent and hearty French toast by simply soaking in a mixture of milk and egg b...
Thursday, Jan. 10, 2019 12:01 am
 My in-laws used to tell a story about how they always cut a small piece off the end of the ham before roasting it. When someone asked what purpose this served, Great-grandmother replied, “I do...
Thursday, Jan. 3, 2019 12:01 am

Salad, to give your body a break

Generally one thinks of salad as summer fare. Indeed, when the garden is bursting with produce and the tables at the farmers market are laden with rainbow-hued veggies, it’s easy to include them on...
Friday, Dec. 28, 2018 10:05 am
New Year's Eve is one of those holidays that I’ve always had a hard time getting right. My better judgment has steered me away from participating in activities that would require driving around on ...
Thursday, Dec. 20, 2018 12:01 am
 As a kid I never understood why grown-ups would talk about “getting through the holidays” like it was some sort of difficult trial. What could be difficult about a time filled with presents...
Thursday, Dec. 6, 2018 12:01 am
 Several years back, my family agreed to stop buying holiday gifts for the adults. Money was always tight for somebody and none of us are big shoppers, so we decided just to buy gifts for the kid...
Thursday, Nov. 29, 2018 12:01 am
 In my last Illinois Times column I reviewed the recently published The Noma Guide to Fermentation. During the past month I have been working my way through several of its recipes. However, I’v...

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