Late summer's fruit

These recipes serve as a bridge between seasons

This is the time of year when my heart feels like it belongs in two places. Mornings are crisp, the kids are back in school and I'm more inclined to crave a steaming cup of hot coffee rather than an iced cold brew. The air has the aroma of fall and I am all in for sweaters, boots and crimson-colored leaves. But then the hot afternoon sun rolls around and I'm back in summer mode, ready to jump into the pool. The warm sunshine seeps into my skin and as I look out at my garden beds overflowing with chaotic abundance, I find myself wishing that summer would never end. Although the unofficial end of summer drops on the Tuesday after Labor Day, I'm hoping to hold on a while longer until the bounty of late-summer fruit finally gives way to pumpkin spice and wintery greens.

Let these recipes serve as a sort of bridge between the seasons. I love to make these scones with fresh blueberries when available, but they are also incredibly satisfying when prepared with roasted apples or dried cranberries. Scones are fast to prepare and can be frozen raw or baked for weeks at a time, making them perfect for a quick breakfast or when company arrives.

Blueberry oatmeal scones

Ingredients:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 ½ cups whole wheat flour
1 cup rolled oats
2 tablespoons baking powder
2 teaspoons salt
½ cup buttermilk (or substitute ½ cup whole milk mixed with 1 teaspoon vinegar)
½ cup maple syrup
4 eggs, beaten
1 pound cold butter (4 sticks)
2 cups fresh or frozen blueberries (or substitute 1 cup of diced, roasted apples or dried fruit)
½ cup pecans, optional

Glaze, optional
1 cup powdered sugar
¼ cup maple syrup
Milk as needed

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Combine the flours, oatmeal, baking powder and salt and mix well to combine. In a smaller bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, maple syrup and eggs. Grate the cold butter into the bowl with the dry ingredients using the large holes on a cheese grater. Use a fork to blend the butter into the flour until it is crumbly and there are still visible bits of butter remaining. Add the wet ingredients and mix until just combined, then gently mix in the blueberries.

Scoop out balls of dough with a portion scoop or transfer the dough to a floured surface and pat it gently to a one-inch thickness before cutting into 3-inch rounds with a biscuit cutter. Place on the parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 20-25 minutes until golden brown and the top of the cones spring back when pressed lightly with a finger.

While the scones bake, make the glaze by whisking together the confectioners' sugar and maple syrup. Add milk as needed to achieve a pourable consistency. Let scones cool for 15 minutes before drizzling with the glaze.

Fresh fruit clafouti

This classic French bistro dessert is simple to prepare and impressive to serve. A rich, eggy batter is poured over fruit and baked until the top is puffed and golden, the crispy edges contrasting beautifully with the creamy, pudding-like center. Traditionally, clafoutis was made with unpitted cherries, the pits imbuing the dish with a subtle almond flavor. Modern cooks often choose to replicate this effect by using pitted cherries along with a drop of almond extract, or they may choose to switch up the fruit entirely, swapping out the cherries for juicy ripe peaches, figs, apples. This adaptable recipe can also be made into a savory version featuring cherry tomatoes, sharp Parmesan cheese and pungent herbs, perfect for brunch or a light supper.

Ingredients:
3 cups fresh fruit, cut into bite sized chunks if necessary
4 tablespoons butter
4 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
A small pinch of salt
¼-½ cup sugar (depending on the sweetness of the fruit)
½ cup all-purpose flour (1:1 gluten-free flour works well for this recipe)
1 teaspoon vanilla
1-2 drops almond extract, optional (best with stone fruits)
1 teaspoon lemon zest, optional
Confectioners' sugar and whipped cream to serve

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Melt the butter in an ovenproof skillet, then allow it to cool before combining the melted butter along with all remaining ingredients (except the fruit) in a blender and blending until smooth. Scatter the prepared fruit evenly in the skillet and pour the batter over the fruit. Bake for 35-45 minutes, until the clafoutis is puffed and golden and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the middle. Serve warm, dusted with confectioners' sugar and a dollop of whipped cream.

Savory cherry tomato and sweet corn variation

Replace the three cups of fresh fruit with two cups of whole cherry tomatoes and one cup of cooked sweetcorn kernels. Replace the sugar with ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, omit the vanilla, almond extract and lemon zest and add 1-2 cloves minced garlic to the batter. Serve with additional Parmesan and garnish with fresh basil.

Spiced pear compote

Compote is essentially a free-form sort of jam in which fruit is stewed in sugar syrup. They're a fast way to preserve ripe fruit and are equally at home on the breakfast table or spooned over a wheel of baked brie. This version features ripe Bartlett pears but would be equally delicious with plums, peaches or apples.

Ingredients:
4 medium pears such as Bartlett or Anjou, peeled, cored and cut into ½-inch pieces
1 ½ inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated
1/3 cup sugar (to taste)
Juice of one lemon
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Combine all ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan along with 1/4 cup of water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the pears soften and release their juices, about 15-20 minutes. The compote will keep in the fridge for up to a week and can be frozen for several months.

Ashley Meyer

Ashley Meyer has been cooking as long as she has been walking. The daughter of beloved former Illinois Times food columnist, Julianne Glatz, Ashley offers a fresh, inspired take on her mother’s culinary legacy. Ashley studied winemaking at Lincoln University in Christchurch, New Zealand and recently achieved the...

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